Enoshima Island

           This weekend we decided to get out and do some more kid-friendly trips for Benjamin. It seems like he has been pretty bored without any school, or kids he can play with besides when we're at the playground. We really wanted to go hiking in the mountains for the day, but I knew that wouldn't be fun for Ben, nor would he be able to do the hike without being carried. So fun day trips that included the nearest zoo and aquarium are what we did.
          On Saturday we took the train about 30 minutes Southeast to Enoshima. Typically we stop at a mini mart on the way to the train to grab a coffee and on the go breakfast to eat somewhere. We grabbed some portable lattes, a juice box, some rice balls (small triangular shaped rice with various flavors, like seaweed or fried rice...etc) and a small cream filled chiffon cake....i know chiffon cake in the morning?... but Marcus has it bad for these things, I usually just have a bit of his. We ate the rice balls as they are small and quick to eat while waiting at the train station, but as it's customary to not eat or drink on the train we saved the rest of  breakfast for our destination. When we arrived at the Katase-Enoshima train station we walked out and found our way towards our destination, the Aquarium. After about a five minute walk, we found the aquarium alongside the beach. We found a spot to sit along the shore and have our coffee and cake while watching the surfers do their excercises.

Views from where we sat. Enoshima Island is in the background.

So many surfers, and absolutely no waves.

        As I was taking these pictures and messing with the new camera, which I'm still really trying to figure out, Marcus opened his cake and took a bite. I noticed it had a pink filling and asked him what flavor it was. As he was trying to figure it out, he went to take another bite. I was looking at the camera when I heard a series of swooping noises, then I saw a mass of brown fly out in front of us...fast. Then I heard him yell out something like "What the F*&% just happened!?"  I don't know if that was the exact, but I'm sure it included an explicitive word of sorts. I immediately realized that a large bird of prey (actually called a Black kite ) we had previously been admiring atop a light pole had just taken half of the cake out of his hand...with his or her beak. Camera in hand, I instantly decided to start snapping photos as the bird looped back around to scope us out again. As I'm still clumsy with my camera, I was so lucky to get this shot.

You can actually see cream filling on it's beak!

       As I was assessing what had happened I just heard Marcus dramatically saying over and over, "I felt it's talon ON my finger!"  I couldn't do anything but burst out laughing. We were so caught off guard  by "the attack", so we just laughed for a good while. Mostly I was laughing at Marcus's reaction and his decision that it was "THE COOLEST thing that has ever happened to me!"... It was crazy and hilarious. He decided to throw the rest of his breakfast away and we quickly wrapped up our idea of sitting on the beachside for a bit and decided to head straight to the Aquarium. As we rounded the corner of the building, I saw this:

It's really too bad we're functionally illiterate, but I'm pretty sure that I now know approximately what this sign says..we just learned the hard way.

Japan lesson of the day: When eating at the sea side, keep your eyes on the skies!  There are no seagulls here, as we learned when we saw them in the zoo (which was weird). Sure back in the states, seagulls are kind of annoying; they pester you by hanging around hoping you'll drop a piece of food or kindly todd them a scrap. But seagulls are pretty much innocent bystanders, they don't have the proverbial kahones (or guts if you like) of a raptor. Raptors are designed to kill, they will use their amazing vision to swoop in and take the food right out of your hand. I saw this happen to a little kid back in Kamakura, but didn't really think too much of it. Now I know...now I know.

Overall the Aquarium was pretty great. We saw a ton of sea creatures we had never seen before, like this guy:

**Dork rant warning** I just had a few issues with the Aquarium, the signs inside were all in Japanese, except for the latin names of the species, which is understandable but just a bit frustrating for geeks like me who prefer to learn something about what I'm looking at. I suppose I could've looked up every species I was curious about online by their scientific name, but I  don't have that kind of time. My other beef, was the small size of the cetacean tanks. The beak-nosed dolphins barely had enough space to turn around, and for two dolpins was just terrible. I'm still hoping there was another section of tank that was hidden from vistors or something. Also the show tank held 5 Bottlenose dolphins (which are massive animals averaging at 2.5 meters long and around 500 lbs. ), and an even larger False Killer whale. Flat-out there was just not enough space for these incredibly beautiful and intelligent animals.** End rant.

mmm... how about a crunchy snack from the gift shop?

    After the Aquarium we headed over towards the popular Enoshima Island. Just a short walk over a few bridges you can arrive at the main street through the Island, or you can hop a small ferry that takes you to the back of the Island for just 400 yen, which is what we did.

After a 10 minute ride, you arrive at the ferry "dock".

You arrive to an area of rocky shore full of people picniking, fishing, and exploring sea life in the cracks.

     After we explored this area, we headed up the stairs...there were a LOT of stairs...to the main part of the Island. As you go up there are restaurants, gift shops, shrines, caves and all sorts of fun things to explore. We just walked through everything pretty quickly, just stopped for a few snacks and to buys a few souvenirs. Here are a few of the pictures we took along the way:

Iwaya Caves

Snakc time...grilled octopus and corn... the corn was pre-frozen, nuff said.

no idea who this god is...but I wouldn't mess with him.

Going down the stairs...towards front of Island.

View of the harbor side from the top of the Island.

Petting turtles at the pond. Animals seem to be so tame everywhere you go in Japan, except the birds.

While sitting on a bench resting and having an ice cream cone, the kites strted to circle us again...there was a sign that looked like it said they like ice cream cones. Apparently these birds have acquired quite the taste for sweets...

      

err...I do not like seeing captive primates like this...he was a gorgeous monkey though, very healthy.

To wash your hands before prayer, or entering temple.

An artist, making a sketch from a bridge.

So fresh...

        
       Overall, we had a great time. This was a really fun day trip. There were a ton of people as it was the start of Golden Week, a week when all Japanese are off and take trips to visit family or vacation. It's not really a recommended time to go sightseeing, as we learned the next day at the Zoo, but it's all about the experience. It's nice to have fun places like this so close to home!

Odawara Castle

I spent this past week in an Intercultural Relations course that is mandatory for all military members, and their family to take upon arrival in Japan. It was a very informative class, and I actually had a lot of fun and met a few friends. On Thursday we had to take a solo fieldtrip, so I went with another woman to Odawara Castle. I won't bore you all with the history of this place, but this link has a pretty good summary in the basic info : http://www.jcastle.info/castle/profile/34

Outside of the castle is a beautiful park, and in the castle there is a nice little museum full of artifacts like real Samurai armor, weapons and traditional art, mostly from the Edo period. The view from the top is great, too bad it wasn't clear enough to see Mt. Fuji.

Here are some of the pictures I took while trying to figure out my new camera.

 Outside of the castle:

Some views from the top:

Hanami in Kamakura

     


       This weekend we visited a few different cities in our local area of Kanagawa Prefecture, Hase and Kamakura. This was perfect timing to visit a few of the many shrines, temples and hiking trails this area offers as it was during hanami, or the cherry blossom veiwing season which is only about one week long. The tradition of Hanami, or picknicking under flowers started as early as the 8th century! Cherry blossoms (sakura) are very important in Japanese culture because they blossom in the springtime. They also signify a major Buddhist tennant mono no aware, or essentially that "all things are impermanent". Because the blossoms are so beautiful, and have such a short life they serve as a natural reminder of mortality.

Cherry blossoms at Hasedera, Hase Temple has a unique and rare combination
of Buddhist and Shinto religions.

        In 721 AD a large tree was discovered by a monk, who decided it was large enough to carve a statue of the Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. A bodhisattva is a future Buddha, or one who is destined for enlightenment and has made a vow to save all sentient beings. Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva is also known as Kannon (Kanzeon, in Japan). Kannon is often referred to as a goddess, but is actually neither male or female, he/she represents love, compassion and mercy. A 9.18 meter tall statue of the eleven-headed Kannon was carved from the large tree. The eleven faces represent different emotions as it is Kannon who listens to the wishes of all people.

Smaller statue of Kannon, carved from the same tree in 721 AD. There is absolutely no photgraphy allowed of the larger statue. I snapped this shot even though I still feel a little guilty about it...I promise I didn't use the flash!

Wish cards can be purchased for a small amount. You write your wish on them and hang them up on a wall.

There are many, many rows of this little guy, Fukuju Jizo or "Happy" Jizo. It is said that Bodhisattva Jizo comforts the souls of unborn children and posesses the great power of all the blessings of the earth.

Monks chanting and drumming under a cherry tree.

 For me Hasedera was one of those places you visit in life that make you feel truly connected to something greater. Maybe it's the beautiful gardens, the sound of monks drumming and chanting, incredible architecture, and ancient artwork that surrounds you as you walk through the temple grounds; but maybe there is something truly sacred about this place. Whatever it is, I felt the presence of an inner peace as I walked through the temple grounds...though it could just be a stage of culture shock too, I suppose...  

After we left Hase Temple, we took a short walk down the busy street to see The Great Buddha, or Daibutsu. This is the second largest Buddha statue in Japan, made of cast bronze nearly 1000 years ago, circa 1243 AD. It stands 11.47 meters tall and weighs 125 metric tons. It is still a mystery (that modern technology can't even figure out) how this statue was made.

 The Buddha used to be housed in a temple, but about 700 years ago there was a great Tsunami in Kanagawa prefecture that destroyed the building and moved the statue a little ways. Rather than erecting a new temple, the people of Japan believed that the Buddha wanted to be outside, and so made a Tsunami to free himself. So this is where he has sat since then, out in the open elements.

Some massive sandals for Buddha...

For perspective...

In the belly of the Buddha...for only 20 yen.

       Once we finished exploring the Great Buddha, we headed back to Kamakura station and on our way to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu (tsu-roo-ga-oh-ka, ha-chi-man-gu) Shrine we saw this guy...it's true Peruvian Flute Bands are EVERYWHERE! I even got yelled at for taking his picture!

     Once you near Hachimangu, there is a Danzakura you walk through. This is essentially a large walkway lined with Cherry trees.

          This thing was PACKED full of people walking at a snail's pace towards the Shrine. It happened to be a festival day, so there were millions of people around. The red gate is called a Torii, and is an entrance to a Shinto shrine. As you pass through it is customary and respectful to stop, and bow to make yourself known to the gods.

A thousand year old Ginko tree stood in the spot with the white flags since before the shrine
was built in 1063 AD, until it's death during a 2010 winter storm. The tree played a
vital role in the shrine's violent fuedal history.

          Hachiman is the Shinto God of War, to whom this shrine is dedicated. There was a festival going on to commemorate Minamoto Yoritomo who established a bafuku shogunate (feudal military dictatorship) government at Kamakura in 1063. This government was headed by Shoguns (hereditary commanders of Samurai forces) from 1185-1333.



Hachiman (maybe?)

The boys in front of a wall full of sake barrels.

Our lunch...smelled so good and it was. Chicken intestines and skin all fried up and delicious!
 We didn't know what it was when we ordered it, but hey don't knock it until you try it!

 

People's wishes in many different languages...

    Overall, our day in Kamakura was amazing. Japan is proving to be a beautiful, and culturally rich country. Each week I eagerly plan our weekend outing and with each new experience I learn so much about Japan's history and religions. The more I learn, the more fascinated I am. I am truly looking forward to the next few years, and hopefully showing some of these places to friends and family who wish to visit us here!

Outside the danzakura, on the way back to the train station.

Kawasaki Fertility Festival and Yokohama (**WARNING** Contains sexual language, photos, and cultural festivites that some may deem as "explicit" or offensive)...



Kanayama Shrine

 

      For many cultures, the arrival of Spring is surely something to celebrate, Japan included. Springtime brings new life to the land after a long winter; baby birds start to hatch, flowers blossom and, for much of the animal world "love" is in the air. This past weekend we embarked on our first real day trip in Japan. We tagged along with some old friends to the Kawasaki Fertility Festival outside of Tokyo.                                                                              
      This festival is known as Kanamara Matsuri, or "The Festival of the Steel Phallus". It is of Shinto origin, and began during the Edo Period (1603-1867) as a way to drive evil spirits and bad luck out of marriage, pregnancy, family and sexual life. There is a legend that there was once a girl who had a demon living inside her vagina. This demon had killed two of her lovers by biting off their penises. (*This seems like an explanation to an STD to me.) So, the preist created a steel phallus to trick the demon, and break his teeth, therefore destroying said demon. The steel phallus was placed on display and became a symbol of significance to people searching for blessings of fertility and sexual health. It also became a shrine for sex workers to come and pray for business success and protection from STD's (especially syphilis).

     It has now blossomed into a Spring festival where people come from all over to celebrate, make wishes and pray for good health. It is an occasion where Gay, Lesbian, and Trans-gendered individuals can come out in the open and be comfortable in this former Red-light district. Festival activities include a parade of "floats", fundraising for HIV research, lots of food, alcohol (sake), souvenirs and especially the phallus shaped candies, and lollipops which literally everyone is walking around eating...it's quite a sight for your typical American who isn't used to seeing that sort of thing on the street. The "floats" are essentially alters built around very large phalluses (the leader, and largest of all being pink, the black one is made of steel, and there is also a wooden one) are carried by men and women wearing very short costumes and paraded down the street followed by a massive crowd of people all trying to touch them for the blessing. Being there in person, literally pushed/ carried off by the crowd is quite an experience!

    My inner feminist has to say, that this massive celebration of the male reproductive organ seemed for me as yet another male-dominated culture blatantly ignoring the woman's role in reproduction. Especially since, there is also some symbolism including the Samurai involved in this festival. Speaking as both a woman, and a mother, I can honestly say that the woman's role in reproduction is much more vital on both a spiritual and scientific level. Though it is a fascinating religious celebration, it does also seem to be  an example of the suppression of women for centuries in too many cultures....I do not know too much about Japanese history in this aspect and I am looking forward to learning more in the future.

      I try not to be ethnocentric, which is why I'm fine with seeing (and exposing my child to) a large celebratory display of what my culture calls "private parts". I feel that human sexuality is something that can be aknowledged, discussed,  and even celebrated (though most American's would rather keep that topic behind closed curtains), but I just wish a little more credit was given where it is due....

Photos:

The short outfits worn by the people partaking in the parade.

I was gonna say a sore thumb, but it stands out like...well...a giant pink penis...

One of the alters.

The gorgeous shrine building.

Penis Energy Ball a.k.a takoyaki (grilled octopus balls)

During the parade, as we were literally being carried away by the pushy crowd.

Marcus getting Benjamin a blessing for a healthy and fertile life.

Alice!?....Dueces!

      After all of this craziness...since it was still early in the day our friends took us to Yokohama for some less crazy fun. We hopped the train to Minatomirai in Yokohama and went up in  the World's 2nd Largest Ferris Wheel. We also had a $5 cup of Starbucks drip coffee and a great time! Minatomirai is like a giant playground/ Amusement Park only a short ride from home, so I'm sure we'll go back often. We finished up the night with some tasty American style BBQ, and a train ride home. Such a fun day... You should see what I'm planning for us to go do this weekend...until then... peace!

Waiting for the train.

I was only a little nervous as I'm kinda scared of heights.

Cosmo Clock 21...I read somewhere it's the world's largest digital clock.

Not the World's tallest Ferris Wheel, at only 353 ft. tall!
The tallest is in Osaka and is 369 ft. tall, we'll get there eventually.

We got a Car!!

Just wanted to share with you all that we found our new family car!

After a few weeks of living here, it became evident that we would need one. Once we figured out the buying process (which is lengthy and involves running around a lot) we decided to go with the same dealer that 85% of the military families here buy from. This particular dealer takes care of the Japanese Compulsatory Insurance, and taxes for you as it is included in the total price of the car. When you are walking everywhere with a 3 year old, you need al the help you can get!
      
When we left the house to go car shopping, Ben said to me "Mommy, I want a yellow car!" I was like, oh we'll see if we can find one...

When we walked up to the lot we were checking out a Red Honda Fit since that is what we had wanted to eventually buy back home. But, I really wanted something small, and unique that I couldn't find in the U.S. and this just wasn't it. But, back behind a few cars, I saw a little butter yellow peeking through and went straight for it. Once Ben and I climbed in, we were sold! For just about $3500 including the various taxes and 1 years worth of collision insurance for 2 drivers we were able to bring home our little "Butterball"...a.k.a. Butters. He's a 2002 Nissan March with about 100,000 km (about 63,000 m) on the engine.

       Driving on the left side of the road isn't as difficult as it may seem at first. I did really well my first time behind the wheel, despite being a famously nervous driver. However, I kept hitting the wipers instead of the turn signals which everyone does. Now I just need to get my license so I can practice, practic, practice!

     *Our household shipment will ready be here tomorrow, almost a month earlier than we expected! I'm so excited to sleep in my own bed! Now we will be settled into our new home country before we know it!